Journal ArticleDOI
Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: A synthesis
L.D Wright,Andrew D. Short +1 more
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TLDR
In this paper, a synthesis of some results obtained over the period 1979-1982 from a study of beach and surf zone dynamics is presented, dealing with the different natural beach states, the process signatures associated with these states, environmental controls on modal beach state, and the temporal variability of beach state and beach profiles.About:
This article is published in Marine Geology.The article was published on 1984-04-01. It has received 1742 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Surf zone & Beach morphodynamics.read more
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The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: A Conceptual Beach Model
TL;DR: In this paper, a conceptual model is presented in which beach morphology (beach type) may be predicted using the dimensionless fall velocity and the relative tide range, whereby the mean spring tide range (MSR) is used to calculate the relative time series.
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Variability of deltaic processes in terms of sediment supply, with particular emphasis on grain size
G. J. Orton,H. G. Reading +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the amount, mode of transport and grain size of the sediment load delivered to a delta front have a considerable effect on the facies, formative physical processes, related depositional environments and morphology of the deltaic depositional system.
Journal ArticleDOI
The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology
TL;DR: In this article, the spatial and temporal variability of nearshore sand bar morphology is quantified using a unique data set spanning 2 years, which consists of daily time exposure images of incident wave breaking on an open coast sandy beach which may be used to infer bar morphology.
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Wave-Induced Sediment Transport and Sandbar Migration
Fernanda Hoefel,Steve Elgar +1 more
TL;DR: A model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach, and the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change.
Journal ArticleDOI
Observations of sand bar evolution on a natural beach
TL;DR: Waves, currents, and the location of the seafloor were measured on a barred beach for about 2 months at nine locations along a cross-shore transect extending 255 m from 1 to 4 m water depth as discussed by the authors.
References
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Wave boundary layers amd friction factors
TL;DR: In this article, the problem of wave height damping due to bottom friction has received increasing attention among near-shore oceanographers, and the aim is to make it possible to determine the proper flow regime for a pure short-period wave motion over a given bed.
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Edge waves and beach cusps
Robert T. Guza,Douglas L. Inman +1 more
TL;DR: In this paper, the spacings of some cusps formed under reflective wave conditions both in the laboratory and in certain selected natural situations are shown to be consistent with models hypothesizing formation by either (1) subharmonic edge waves (period twice that of the incident waves) of zero mode number or (2) synchronous edge waves of low mode.
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Wave, beach and dune interactions in southeastern Australia
Andrew D. Short,Patrick A. Hesp +1 more
TL;DR: A morphodynamic classification of surfzones, beaches and dunes of the microtidal, low- to high-energy southeast Australian coast is presented in this article, where the morphodynamic state of a fine to medium sand beaches either dissipative, intermediate or reflective.
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Swash oscillations on a natural beach
TL;DR: In this paper, run-up energy spectra at wind wave frequencies show an ƒ−3 dependence and energy levels that are independent of incident wave height, which suggests saturation.