Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model

https://oss.deltares.nl/documents/48999/59759/Roelvink_2009.pdf

Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands

A third-generation spectral wave model (Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN)) for small-scale, coastal regions with shallow water, (barrier) islands, tidal flats, local wind, and ambient currents is verified in stationary mode with measurements in five real field cases. These verification cases represent an increasing complexity in two- dimensional bathymetry and added presence of currents. In the most complex of these cases, the waves propagate through a tidal gap between two barrier islands into a bathymetry of channels and shoals with tidal currents where the waves are regenerated by a local wind. The wave fields were highly variable with up to 3 orders of magnitude difference in energy scale in individual cases. The model accounts for shoaling, refraction, generation by wind, whitecapping, triad and quadruplet wave-wave interactions, and bottom and depth-induced wave breaking. The effect of alternative formulations of these processes is shown. In all cases a relatively large number of wave observations is available, including observations of wave directions. The average rms error in the computed significant wave height and mean wave period is 0.30 m and 0.7 s, respectively, which is 10% of the incident values for both.

https://agupubs.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1029/1998JC900123

A third‐generation wave model for coastal regions: 2. Verification

Water movement in freshwater and marine environments affects submersed macrophytes, which also mediate water movement. The result of this complex interaction also affects sediment dynamics in and around submersed macrophyte beds. This review defines known relationships and identifies areas that need additional research on the complex interactions among submersed macrophytes, water movement, and sediment dynamics. Four areas are addressed: (1) the effects of water movement on macrophytes, (2) the effects of macrophyte stands on water movement, (3) the effects of macrophyte beds on sedimentation within vegetated areas, and (4) the relationship between sediment resuspension and macrophytes. Water movement has a significant effect on macrophyte growth, typically stimulating both abundance and diversity of macrophytes at low to moderate velocities, but reducing growth at higher velocities. In turn, macrophyte beds reduce current velocities both within and adjacent to the beds, resulting in increased sedimentation and reduced turbidity. Reduced turbidity increases light availability to macrophytes, increasing their growth. Additionally, macrophytes affect the distribution, composition and particle size of sediments in both freshwater and marine environments. Therefore, establishment and persistence of macrophytes in both marine and freshwater environments provide important ecosystem services, including: (1) improving water quality; and (2) stabilizing sediments, reducing sediment resuspension, erosion and turbidity.

The interaction between water movement, sediment dynamics and submersed macrophytes

1. Introduction 2. Observation techniques 3. Description of ocean waves 4. Statistics 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) 6. Waves in oceanic waters 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters) 8. Waves in coastal waters 9. The SWAN wave model Appendices References Index.

/pdf/waves-in-oceanic-and-coastal-waters-6ofdu4icqi.pdf

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters

SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters

https://coast.nd.edu/reports_papers/2010_CE_v068.pdf

Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled, scalable computations

This paper proposes a numerical technique that in essence is based upon the classical staggered grids and implicit numerical integration schemes, but that can be applied to problems that include rapidly varied flows as well. Rapidly varied flows occur, for instance, in hydraulic jumps and bores. Inundation of dry land implies sudden flow transitions due to obstacles such as road banks. Near such transitions the grid resolution is often low compared to the gradients of the bathymetry. In combination with the local invalidity of the hydrostatic pressure assumption, conservation properties become crucial. The scheme described here, combines the efficiency of staggered grids with conservation properties so as to ensure accurate results for rapidly varied flows, as well as in expansions as in contractions. In flow expansions, a numerical approximation is applied that is consistent with the momentum principle. In flow contractions, a numerical approximation is applied that is consistent with the Bernoulli equation. Both approximations are consistent with the shallow water equations, so under sufficiently smooth conditions they converge to the same solution. The resulting method is very efficient for the simulation of large-scale inundations. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

A staggered conservative scheme for every Froude number in rapidly varied shallow water flows

A numerical technique is presented for the approximation of vertical gradient of the non-hydrostatic pressure arising in the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations for simulating non-hydrostatic free-surface flows. It is based on the Keller-box method that take into account the effect of non-hydrostatic pressure with a very small number of vertical grid points. As a result, the proposed technique is capable of simulating relatively short wave propagation, where both frequency dispersion and non-linear effects play an important role, in an accurate and efficient manner. Numerical examples are provided to illustrate this; accurate wave characteristics are already achieved with only two layers. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Guus S. Stelling

Papers

Development and validation of a three-dimensional morphological model

SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters

Modeling hurricane waves and storm surge using integrally-coupled, scalable computations

A staggered conservative scheme for every Froude number in rapidly varied shallow water flows

An accurate and efficient finite-difference algorithm for non-hydrostatic free-surface flow with application to wave propagation