Ad Reniers

TL;DR: In this paper, a nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases.

TL;DR: In this article, the morphodynamic response of the nearshore zone of an embayed beach induced by wave groups is examined with a numerical model, which utilizes the nonlinear shallow water equations to phase resolve the mean and infragravity motions in combination with an advection-diffusion equation for the sediment transport.

TL;DR: A 2DH numerical model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island as discussed by the authors.

TL;DR: An overview of the rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized in this article, where rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total.

TL;DR: The results demonstrate the feasibility and utility of deploying large clusters of drifting instruments to provide synoptic observations of spatial variability of the ocean surface velocity field and allow quantification of the submesoscale-driven dispersion missing in current operational circulation models and satellite altimeter-derived velocity fields.