Dano Roelvink

TL;DR: In this paper, a nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases.

TL;DR: In this article, low-frequency (infragravity) wave dynamics on a fringing coral reef were investigated using the numerical model XBeach and water level measurements (tidal and wave setup) obtained during a field study at Ningaloo Reef in Western Australia.

TL;DR: In this paper, the authors focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves, and three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone.

TL;DR: The main dependencies and sensitivities of the MORFAC approach to fundamental forcing conditions and model parameters are elucidated and a criterion based on the Courant–Friedrichs–Levy condition for bed form propagation that maybe used as a guide to determine the critical MORFac a priori is proposed.