Variable skin pH values are being reported in literature, all in the acidic range but with a broad range from pH 4.0 to 7.0. In a multicentre study (N = 330), we have assessed the skin surface pH of the volar forearm before and after refraining from showering and cosmetic product application for 24 h. The average pH dropped from 5.12 +/- 0.56 to 4.93 +/- 0.45. On the basis of this pH drop, it is estimated that the 'natural' skin surface pH is on average 4.7, i.e. below 5. This is in line with existing literature, where a relatively large number of reports (c. 50%) actually describes pH values below 5.0; this is in contrast to the general assumption, that skin surface pH is on average between 5.0 and 6.0. Not only prior use of cosmetic products, especially soaps, have profound influence on skin surface pH, but the use of plain tap water, in Europe with a pH value generally around 8.0, will increase skin pH up to 6 h after application before returning to its 'natural' value of on average below 5.0. It is demonstrated that skin with pH values below 5.0 is in a better condition than skin with pH values above 5.0, as shown by measuring the biophysical parameters of barrier function, moisturization and scaling. The effect of pH on adhesion of resident skin microflora was also assessed; an acid skin pH (4-4.5) keeps the resident bacterial flora attached to the skin, whereas an alkaline pH (8-9) promotes the dispersal from the skin.

Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora

Measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), based on the estimation of the water vapour gradient in an open chamber, is being used to support claims of cosmetics including product mildness, reduction in irritative skin reactions, skin hydration, skin repair, protective effect against UV damage and others. TEWL measurement can also screen ingredients that have a beneficial effect on the barrier function and offer the possibility to monitor in vivo, on human skin, the effect of topical treatment in an objective and non-invasive way. A high number of variables affecting TEWL measurements have been identified. These should be rigorously taken into consideration. To work under standardised conditions is of the utmost importance to obtain reliable and reproducible results.

EEMCO Guidance for the Assessment of Transepidermal Water Loss in Cosmetic Sciences

Background: It is currently fashionable to consider atopic dermatitis (AD), like other inflammatory dermatoses, as immunologic in pathogenesis ("inside-outside" hypothesis). Accordingly, topical glucocorticoids and other immunosuppressive agents are mainstays of therapy, but the risk of toxicity from these agents is not insignificant, particularly in children. Alternatively, because stratum corneum (SC) permeability barrier function is also abnormal in AD, it has been hypothesized that the barrier abnormality could drive disease activity. Yet commonly used emollients and moisturizers do not correct the SC ceramide deficiency, the putative cause of the barrier abnormality. Objectives: We assessed the efficacy of a newly developed, ceramide-dominant, physiologic lipid-based emollient, when substituted for currently used moisturizers, in 24 children who were also receiving standard therapy for stubborn-to-recalcitrant AD. Methods: All subjects continued prior therapy (eg, topical tacrolimus or corticosteroids), only substituting the barrier repair emollient for their prior moisturizer. Follow-up evaluations, which included severity scoring of atopic dermatitis (SCORAD) values and several biophysical measures of SC function, were performed every 3 weeks for 20 to 21 weeks. Results: SCORAD values improved significantly in 22 of 24 patients by 3 weeks, with further progressive improvement in all patients between 6 and 20 or 21 weeks. Transepidermal water loss levels (TEWL), which were elevated over involved and uninvolved areas at entry, decreased in parallel with SCORAD scores and continued to decline even after SCORAD scores plateaued. Both SC integrity (cohesion) and hydration also improved slowly but significantly during therapy. Finally, the ultrastructure of the SC, treated with ceramide-dominant emollient, revealed extracellular lamellar membranes, which were largely absent in baseline SC samples. Conclusion: These studies suggest that (1) a ceramide-dominant, barrier repair emollient represents a safe, useful adjunct to the treatment of childhood AD and (2) TEWL is at least as sensitive an indicator of fluctuations in AD disease activity as are SCORAD values. These studies support the outside-inside hypothesis as a component of pathogenesis in AD and other inflammatory dermatoses that are accompanied by a barrier abnormality. (J Am Acad Dermatol 2002;47:198-208.)

Ceramide-dominant barrier repair lipids alleviate childhood atopic dermatitis: Changes in barrier function provide a sensitive indicator of disease activity

https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)33943-9/pdf

Barrier function and water-holding and transport properties of infant stratum corneum are different from adult and continue to develop through the first year of life.

Summary
Background Moisturizers are the most commonly used topically applied product for the treatment of dry skin conditions. They affect many properties and functions of the stratum corneum but some moisturizers have been reported to be detrimental to barrier function. Stratum corneum barrier function is a composite of its total structure and thickness but few studies have taken this into account. As a biosensor, the stratum corneum (SC) will change its structure in response to treatment and a swelling effect has been clearly demonstrated by skin hydration. Recently several moisturizing agents have been shown to have an effect on SC swelling behaviour with conflicting results. However, there is a paucity of data reported for measuring the effects of long-term usage of moisturizers on SC thickness in vivo as, until recently, traditional techniques did not have the resolution to measure the effects of moisturizers on nonpalmoplantar body sites. The development of confocal Raman spectroscopy for use in human subjects provides noninvasive, real-time, in vivo measurement of SC water concentration profiles and we have also used this state of the art equipment to measure the effect of the long-term use of moisturizers on SC thickness for the first time.

Objectives  To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure SC thickness and then use it to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturizers (one of which is known to improve SC barrier function) on SC thickness, water gradients and hydration.

Methods  Two studies were conducted: (i) to validate the use of CRS for measuring SC thickness through comparison with optical coherence tomography (OCT); and (ii) once validated to use CRS to measure the long-term effects of three commercially available moisturizers (A, B, C) on SC thickness and water gradients, together with total hydration, over a 3-week period (2 weeks of treatment and 1 week regression) and compare the spectroscopy-derived hydration value with instrumentally derived capacitance hydration values.

Results  (i) A strong, positive correlation in SC thickness was obtained between CRS and OCT (OCT-derived thickness = 0·96 × CRS-derived thickness, r2 = 0·93; P <0·0001). OCT was shown, however, to have a lower resolution than CRS in distinguishing SC thickness on thinner nonpalmoplantar body sites. Using the CRS method, differences in SC thickness were readily apparent on different body sites (cheek 12·8 ± 0·9 μm, volar forearm 18·0 ± 3·9 μm, leg 22·0 ± 6·9 μm). (ii) Examining the effects of moisturizers in a blinded, randomized 3-week study in human volunteers (n = 14) demonstrated that only one commercially available formulation (A) changed SC water gradients, thickness and hydration as measured by CRS. These hydration data did not directly correlate with capacitance hydration values.

Conclusions  (i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B3) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.

Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo

Background/aims: 
The improvement of stratum corneum hydration is one of the most important claims in the cosmetic industry.

Methods: 
Objective assessment of moisturization can be done with devices based on electrical methods provided these instruments are used in an appropriate manner.

Results: 
This paper deals with the biophysical basis behind these techniques and describes the most important variables, pitfalls and drawbacks related to measurements and current instrumentation. Individual-related and environment-related variables are also analyzed as well as study designs for predictive or use tests.

Conclusions: 
Practical suggestions for standardization of measurements are given.

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Papers

EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods