Journal ArticleDOI
Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup
TLDR
In this paper, an empirical parameterization for extreme runup, defined by the 2% exceedence value, has been developed for use on natural beaches over a wide range of conditions.About:
This article is published in Coastal Engineering.The article was published on 2006-05-01. It has received 1058 citations till now. The article focuses on the topics: Swash & Wave setup.read more
Citations
More filters
Journal ArticleDOI
Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands
Dano Roelvink,Dano Roelvink,Ad Reniers,Ad Reniers,Ap van Dongeren,Jaap van Thiel de Vries,Robert McCall,Jamie Lescinski +7 more
TL;DR: In this paper, a nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases.
Journal ArticleDOI
The global flood protection savings provided by coral reefs
Michael W. Beck,Inigo J. Losada,Pelayo Menéndez,Borja G. Reguero,Pedro Díaz-Simal,Felipe Atienza Fernández +5 more
TL;DR: The authors show that the annual damages from flooding would double globally without reefs and they quantify where reefs provide the most protection to people and property.
Journal ArticleDOI
The history and technical capabilities of Argus
Robert A. Holman,J. Stanley +1 more
TL;DR: In this article, the authors describe the components of the Argus Stations with an emphasis on quantitative characterization of the accuracies and resolution of system components, and present algorithms for estimation of a range of important nearshore measurements.
Journal ArticleDOI
Doubling of coastal flooding frequency within decades due to sea-level rise
Sean Vitousek,Patrick L. Barnard,Charles H. Fletcher,Neil Frazer,Li H. Erikson,Curt D. Storlazzi +5 more
TL;DR: This work uses extreme value theory to combine sea-level projections with wave, tide, and storm surge models to estimate increases in coastal flooding on a continuous global scale and finds that regions with limited water-level variability, i.e., short-tailed flood-level distributions, located mainly in the Tropics, will experience the largest increases in flooding frequency.
Journal ArticleDOI
Intense hurricane activity over the past 5,000 years controlled by El Niño and the West African monsoon.
TL;DR: Comparison of the sediment record with palaeo-climate records indicates that this variability was probably modulated by atmospheric dynamics associated with variations in the El Niño/Southern Oscillation and the strength of the West African monsoon, and suggests that sea surface temperatures as high as at present are not necessary to support intervals of frequent intense hurricanes.
References
More filters
Journal ArticleDOI
Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications
TL;DR: The radiation stresses in water waves play an important role in a variety of oceanographic phenomena, for example in the change in mean sea level due to storm waves (wave set-up), the generation of "surf-beats", the interaction of waves with steady currents, and the steepening of short gravity waves on the crests of longer waves as discussed by the authors.
Journal ArticleDOI
Transformation of wave height distribution
TL;DR: In this paper, the authors reviewed earlier models of random wave transformation and described the transformation of waves, including dissipation due to breaking and bottom friction, by an energy flux balance model, and compared results from random wave experiments in the laboratory and from an extensive set of field measurements.
Journal Article
Storm Impact Scale for Barrier Islands
TL;DR: In this paper, a new scale is proposed that categorizes impacts to natural barrier islands resulting from tropical and extra-tropical storms, and the proposed scale is fundamentally different than existing storm-related scales in that the coupling between forcing processes and the geometry of the coast is explicitly included.
Journal ArticleDOI
Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies
TL;DR: In this article, an approach was developed for using video imagery to quantify, in terms of both spatial and temporal dimensions, a number of naturally occurring (nearshore) physical processes.
Journal ArticleDOI
Swash oscillations on a natural beach
TL;DR: In this paper, run-up energy spectra at wind wave frequencies show an ƒ−3 dependence and energy levels that are independent of incident wave height, which suggests saturation.